Can You Exfoliate Before Your Retinoid?

Well, it depends...

It’s been drilled into our heads not to exfoliate and use a retinoid in the same routine. But what if I told you that you can? 

In general, as a licensed esthetician, I don’t recommend clients, or anyone, who’s new to exfoliants and retinoids to use them in the same routine. It can cause irritation, dryness, a damaged skin barrier, etc. 

But if you are someone who has been using retinoids and exfoliants for a while and you want to level up your routine, it can be a game changer when done correctly.

Applying your retinoid to exfoliated skin enhances it’s absorbtion and helps with penetration. Plus if you are layering a peptide or dark spot serum on top of your retinoid with a good ceremide enriched gel cream moisturizer, you will notice brighter, plumper, overall juicier skin the next morning. 

But it’s not for everyone…

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How To Exfoliate Before Layering a Retinoid

Who Should Try It:

If you have been using retinoids and seen results for the past 9 months or longer and you want to improve those results. You may be using a .1% to .2% retinaldehyde, like Medik8’s Crystal Retinal 24 or Face Theory’s Retinal Supreme Multicream. Or a product with a retinoic acid ester like Skin Better’s AlphaRet Overnight Cream (which uses a double conjugate retinoid–a molecule that combines lactic acid and a retinoid) or Sunday Riley’s A+ High Dose Retinoid Serum.

If any of the above sounds like gobbly-goop to you, your not ready yet. 

How Should You Start:

Before going down this path you want to first make sure that you are using exfoliants on opposite days than your retinoid and ensure your skin is very tolerant to those exfoliants.

When you begin layering, always start slow (1 day a week) with a very sensitive skin friendly exfoliant, like mandelic acid and polyhydroxy acids (PHA). Go with a cleanser and not a serum so you run less of a risk of irritation and increase usage overtime. If you have more tolerant skin you can use these same steps with a toner. 

Consider Your Skin Type:

If you have dry skin, focus on moisturizing as much as possible. Use a creamy cleanser, then a PHA toner or low concentrated mandelic acid toner (3-5%), then add an essence or moisturizer before applying your retinoid. 

If you have sensitive skin, I would skip this as a solution and stick to exfoliating the night before you are using a retinoid. 

Dry / Combination Exfoliant + Retinoid Night Routine

Step 1 - 1st Cleanse: Then I Met You Living Cleansing Balm Makeup Remover (if you are wearing makeup)

Step 2 - 2nd Cleanse: Glymed+ Mega Cream Cleanser

Step 3 - Exfoliating Toner: Eadem Cashmere Peel Gentle AHA + PHA Exfoliating Toner

Step 4 - Hydrating Essence: Aestura ATOBarrier365 Hydro Essence with Hydrating Amino Acids for Skin Moisture Barrier

Step 5 - Retinoid: Skin Script Advanced Renewal

Step 6 - Moisturizer: Glymed+ Barrier Repair Cream with Amino Acids (if you have dry skin)

or

Glymed+ Comfort Cream (if you have combination skin)

Oily Skin Exfoliant + Retinoid Night Routine

Step 1 - 1st Cleanse: Manyo Factory Pure Cleansing Oil (if you are wearing makeup)

Step 2 - 2nd Cleanse: Skin Script Honey Brightening Cleanser

Step 3 - Retinoid Serum: Youth To The People Retinal + Niacinamide Youth Serum

Step 4 - Moisturizer: Skin Script Light Aloe Moisturizer

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Remember to focus on what works best for you. Your retinoid journey is one that should be exciting, especially when you’ve discovered what will help you wake up to your dream skin. If you experience any irritation, stop immediately, allow your skin time to heal, and now you know your skin’s threshold so you can focus on consistency and slowly building up your skin’s tolerance. 

It’s a marathon, not a sprint. 

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